Let's go to the Taj Mahal first and then I'll rant about the dump that is Agra.

This is the building into which everyone must go if they wish to see the Taj; it's like a huge reception hall except for the fact that there's no reception

And, you emerge on the other side of that big red building to catch your first stereotypical glimpse of the Taj Mahal, which is actually pronounced "Taaj Mehel" and not "Taaj Mahaal" as most foreigners, bless them, say it (no fault of their own - the spelling is deceptive).

You need to take your shoes off before entering the place, which I assume is because it is a mosque or mosque-equivalent building. What you don't see in the picture above is the shoe storage area they've made which is supposed to be "free" but the guy asks you for a tip anyway (I hate tipping; and it's not on principle or anything, I just hate it.)

I didn't go back and check but I think I saw a picture like this on Rungta's Photoblog when he visited the Taj last year and I thought I'd mimic him. That said, his was probably loads better, 'cause he's Rungta. Still, the Minar looks good.

Urdu has got to be the prettiest script there is - stylistic even when written normally and breathtakingly so when written in a calligraphic sort of way. Also, I have seen no other script which allows such an enormous degree of license to the writer for squeezing large amounts of information into tiny spaces, while still being legible. For the record, I didn't read the inscriptions on the walls, not for lack of knowledge of the script or tongue, but because I couldn't find where it started, and Urdu/Arabic calligraphy, in that respect, is not the easiest thing to read.

Close-up of some calligraphy on the wall. Another Rungta imitation if I am not much mistaken.

Looking back from the Taj Mahal at the entrance-chamber-thing

Looking back at the Taj Mahal - white as ever. Beautiful too.
So, it's Rs. 20 (about 50¢) to get in to see the Taj Mahal for Indian nationals and $5 for foreign nationals. Cameras are the only electronic items allowed inside the premises. Camcorders are not allowed as such and you have to pay them some horrific amount of money to take one with you, and even then, only upto a point.
So, this is the first time I've been to see the Taj Mahal. The rest of my family's been at least once and a lot of Indians usually ask "When did you last visit?" instead of "Have you seen it?". However, being India's most popular monument, I've seen pictures of the Taj so many times that nothing there was any surprise to me. Of course, the big difference now is that I have
my very own pictures of the place. So hah! The Taj Mahal also makes you think how much free time and money some people had about half a millennium ago even if they were emperors. Answer: well, quite enough.
Also, anyone who has ever lifted even a small slab of marble can imagine how freakishly heavy the Taj Mahal must be, with the whole thing being made out of white marble. I mean, honestly, the stuff is really, really heavy. Those 22,000 workmen who built the thing and 1,000 elephants that carried the raw materials from all of Asia? I wouldn't want to be one of them. I like my back the way it is - no more than 33 pieces.
Anyway, we commuted between the Taj Mahal and the Mughal Sheraton (our hotel, which, incidentally, is also made mostly out of marble) on this
autorickshaw, but it was different from all the autos I've ever ridden because, even though it looked just like any other run-of-the-mill auto, it was battery-powered and this meant that it made just about as much engine noise as a Mac mini. And, on the ride back, my mother told me everything there is to know about breastfeeding - how it works and how awesome it is. Sometimes she just can't help being a gynaecologist. Anyhow, Agra, on the whole, has this thing with battery-powered stuff because a few years ago, they noticed that acid rain was turning the Taj from white to yellow and everyone panicked and tried to cut down on the pollution bit. But, I don't think they're making a great effort because our hotel, which owned the battery auto, had a grand total of 2 (two) of these vehicles. They'll also take you to the Taj in a horse carriage if you give them Rs. 500 and are nasally prepared for the smell of horse shit.
That said, we visited the Taj again that same night because my parents thought we'd see the "Taj at Night" under the moonlit sky. It was hellishly expensive - Rs. 510 per person as compared to Rs. 20 in the day. But that's not the best part. Here's the best shot of the Taj I got at night:

Oh yeah, and our eyes were doing only slightly better. We only had a faint idea that there was an international celebrity somewhere in the dark. The moon was so dim that a cellphone's display could have given it a run for its money, and the only time we actually saw something was during the fraction of a second when the flash on someone's camera went off. Pathetic waste of money - criminal, if you ask me. Without this whole nighttime viewing programme, we could've left Agra (big dump of a city that it is) yesterday evening by a punctual 8pm Shatabdi Express that takes 2.5 hours to get to Delhi but instead had to take the 6am Intercity Express which had
fourteen stops, kept stopping for no apparent reason even where there wasn't a station, was overtaken by possibly every other train on the planet, and took a total of 4.5 hours to get to Delhi - an hour late.
Anyhow, the trip made for some good photos, a very intense realization of the fact that Agra is a city unworthy of having such a beautiful monument smack in the middle of it, and the greatest amount of marble that I've ever seen in one day.
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